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Shelia Huffman – Guest Contributor
Oct 30 2012
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Living Water Display and Pianist at HPC

Approximately 60 hungry diners gathered at the Highland Park Cafeteria in Casa Linda Sunday evening, October 28, for tasting and voting on dishes prepared from classic recipes that had been safely preserved in the restaurant’s vault.  

Two long banquet tables, clothed in white, lined the center of the dining room. They were appointed with autumn Mums and colorful bottles of vintage soda pop. Each place setting included a ballot with a slate that read like Sunday Dinner at Grandma’s — items such as Perfection Salad, Fried Green Tomatoes, Rutabagas, and Chicken and Dumplings.    

The lucky diners had purchased advance tickets for the privilege of voting on their favorite dishes, hoping the results would return those dishes to the current cafeteria line. Profits from the event went to Living Water International, the organization that digs deep wells in Africa, Latin America and India, providing safe drinking water and saving lives.  

The Highland Park Cafeteria has offered good, down-home cooking to Dallasites and its visitors since it opened in 1925 on Knox Street in Highland Park. Sallie Temple Goodman from Muskogee, Oklahoma along with her son, Dewey, founded the cafeteria. Simple food with fresh ingredients, expertly prepared, brought the restaurant to icon status.  

In a 1981 article in the New York Times, Peter Applebome referred to the Highland Park Cafeteria as “America’s Cafeteria,” calling it “an unusual mix of aristocratic sensibilities and democratic dining.” “The serving line”, he said, “usually snakes out the door with diners ranging from blue bloods to blue collar workers in cowboy boots”.   

The dining room décor featured Royal Doulton China, oak cupboards and of course, portraits of the Presidents. (Many of us remember passing the time waiting to get to the tray station, learning the U. S. Presidents from the portraits that lined the wall.)   

In the early 1980s, two new locations were opened, one in North Dallas and the other in East Dallas, as well as a food court style eatery in Plaza of The Americas in downtown Dallas.  

Today, only the Casa Linda restaurant in East Dallas remains open. It is owned by Jeff Snoyer. In 2007, Jeff brought in the First Ladies to join their husbands. They are displayed on the wall behind the piano where they are serenaded daily during lunch and dinner. I asked Jeff what changes he had seen in the food industry. He said that people are concerned about healthy eating but that they have come full circle, wanting simple goodness. One change he noted in the kitchen from the original restaurant is that Oleo is being replaced by butter. It’s healthier.   

There are 10 employees today that worked for the original HPC with Ernest Bowens, affectionately known as Mr. B., having the longest association. Mr. B. joined the staff in 1956. His advise to new employees is “Do good everyday; the Lord said Do good everyday.”  

Back to the ballot! What’s the ingredient in congealed Argentine? Prunes! Was that a turn off to the tasters? Not to Jeannie Courtwright of Lakewood. She gave it a “1,” the highest score. So did Craig Brinker of Forest Hills. I gave my “1” in the salad category to the Tomato Aspic. It’s the best I’ve ever had; however, the deviled eggs are delicious.  

And so went the evening, right down to Banana Pudding, Coca Cola Cake and Millionaire Pie.We left totally stuffed and totally confused. We’re Texans.We want it all back.  

When the results are tallied perhaps we can go through the line and choose a salad or side that brings back memories of days gone by where at least some things old are new again.  

For more information on Living Waters, visit www.water.cc. 

Sheila Huffman is a columnist for BubbleLife. She may be reached at lakehoodslady@gmail.com.